Peru: Machu Picchu

The two-day Inca trail is probably the most expensive thing I have done on any trip. I would have loved to do the “classic” four-day trek (following the path that the Incas took), but it is much more popular and gets sold out almost a year in advance. In the wee hours of the morning, I was escorted by our tour-guide from my room to a minibus that would take us to the train station nearby. I joined a few others who had started much earlier from Cusco and other places on the way. We introduced ourselves to each other as we were handed out some snacks and water after getting off the bus. Our group of nine was an eclectic mix of Germans, Canadians and an Indian family who also live in California. I was seated with the family on the train and made the most of their generosity, not refusing a single food item that they offered. Whether it was an ice breaker or not, anybody would know how much I loved to eat within minutes of meeting me. The train journey to the start of the trail lasted about an hour and twenty minutes. It chugged alongside the Urubamba river through the Andes, revealing spectacular scenery after every turn.

 The day hikers must get off at Chachabamba, also called km 104. It is not a station, just a stop by the tracks for us without even a platform. We crossed a bridge that said Camino Sagrado, which means “the sacred road” and presented our passports at the checkpoint. The second guide for our group joined us here. We started the trek sometime between 8 and 9 AM. I was worried how I would do since my bag was full and heavy although I had made sure I had packed only whatever was necessary for the next day. We stopped and looked around the Chachabamba ruins a few minutes into the trek where the guide briefed us about Inca history, the trek and some geography of the area. It is then that I learnt that Quechua is the language of the Incans. Despite the Spanish and Portuguese conquests trying to eradicate the Inca and pre-Inca language, culture and traditions in south America and forcing their own on the people, Quechua has survived. It is now an endangered language though, the native speakers themselves trying to learn Spanish which is the language of power.

 We took our jackets off and started the climb, quick to realise that hiking in the sun for the whole day would be no mean task. After a swift ascent through the trees, we were out in the open with a view of the Urubamba valley and the mountains. The Incas call the mountain spirits that protect them Apu and believe that they guard them in troubled times.  One such Apu, Mt Veronica was towering over us at a distance and I turned around whenever I could to take pictures. She was originally named Waqaywillka which means sacred tears in Quechua. The Spanish probably went for a name they were familiar with and could easily pronounce, but I would like to think it is an indication of a female foray into the world of the typically male spirits. We stopped at shelters on the way, vying for space with the other groups. I listened to the most interesting conversations about different languages, cultures and of course about others’ adventures. While I was wondering when I would have enough experiences to share and hold anyone’s attention at such gatherings, I was grateful that I was fortunate enough to be there at all, not a travel novice anymore. The other solo traveler in our group was on a three month long (gasp!) trip through Ecuador, Peru and Bolivia. Someone commented how Germans just know how to do that. I wondered if I would ever be able to go on a trip like that. I should probably consider moving to Germany or France where something called work life balance exists.

 We arrived at a waterfall a couple of hours into the trek through the dense forest. After taking pictures to our heart’s content, we proceeded to Winay Wayna. This Inca ruin was visible from a distance and motivated us to hike on not just because it looked beautiful, but because that is where we would stop for lunch. Though I had seen many terraces and ruins since I landed in Cusco, this site on the steep hillside stood out with splendid views. Our lunch awaited us in some tents very close to the ruins. It was delicious with a lot of vegetarian dishes, my favorite being a preparation with avocado. I came very close to licking the plate clean.

 Back on the trail, we were ever so energetic. Not long afterwards, we climbed up the ‘monkey steps’ – literally means we were on all four, to Intipunku (Sun gate) for our first glimpse of Machu Picchu. According to Wikipedia, this is believed to be a control gate for those who entered and exited the sacred sanctuary. We felt what the Incas would have felt stepping through these gates, a mix of awe and reverence. It was everything we had seen in pictures, so much more beautiful and real. For me, the hike represented what I truly believe in life, that something becomes so much more worthwhile when I have struggled to achieve it. If I have something easy, it was probably never meant to be. Perhaps that is what the Inca people believed too, when they took the longer path despite easier access. We had gotten this far, all we had to do now was descend about a mile or so to get a closer look. We were amidst the most number of people we had seen all day since quite a lot of tourists choose to hike up to sun gate from Machu Picchu. We joined them to reach just outside the most important destination on this trip, Machu Picchu which translates to ‘Old mountain’, a UNESCO world heritage site. We tried our best to get as many photos as possible, some couples in our group leaning in for a kiss. It was not as crowded as I had expected since it was nearly sunset time and most people would have to go back to Cusco the same day.

 We took the bus to Aguas Calientes where we would be spending the night. Our group dispersed agreeing to meet for dinner soon. My hotel room made me feel rich, what with the jacuzzi and the fancy arrangements! I did not use it though, not having any prior experience and afraid I might make a fool of myself although I was alone. As we walked to a restaurant nearby for dinner, we could see people glued to television screens enjoying the Copa America semi finals match between Brazil and Argentina. Having spent a day together, the nine of us and the guides were all like family now, going beyond making conversations, watching out for each other. I am usually afraid to let my guard down, assuming everybody around is so much more sophisticated and would not take easily to my rather unaffected demeanor. I surely had warmed up to these people to let go of that feeling. I contemplated how this was the very purpose of traveling, helping me learn and be better while familiarizing myself with others’ ways.

 I was promptly at the cafeteria in the hotel at 5 in the morning for breakfast, treating myself to some fresh juice as usual. We took a bus up to Machu Picchu. It was the right time to see it in all its glory before the environment gets contaminated by more people like us. We finally stepped inside. Even though it is still disputed what this site was originally meant for, people from all over the world make this obligatory trip to Machu Picchu while in Peru to check for themselves, what all the furor is about. It is not much ado about nothing. While scientists and archaeologists are investigating, what piques our admiration even today is how they managed to get all those stones up there and fit them together so well. Our guide did an exceptional job of explaining the various theories about the origins, the most interesting one for me being that they concluded it was a women’s haven at some point. The mystery of its true purpose only adds to the beauty, encouraging each one of us to look for answers while we take it all in. After our tour, the guide let us be for as long as we want until we would meet for lunch in Aguas Calientes.

 I had the ticket to climb up Wayna Picchu (Young Mountain), the imposing one behind Machu Picchu in all the photos. I was the only one from our group and they got me a little worried, asking me to be very careful. I was let in before my stipulated start time and started the hike with my day pack on me. It was a steep climb up the stairs all the way until the top. It was not frightening at all because there were plants obstructing our view of the valley and the fact that we were in the shade made it much less demanding. The view from the top of “the other side of Machu Picchu” was something I had never seen anywhere before. It seemed far away and small, still intricate. La Veronica was visible too, quite a lot of people trying to get photos with her in the backdrop. I was impatient to get back and rushed after a few minutes at the top. The crowd when I got back to Machu Picchu was suffocating to say the least and I was glad I had had enough time there already. It took me a while to get to the exit maneuvering through all the people. I hoped to do some gift shopping, but the gift shop was highly disappointing. I treated myself to some delicious fruit flavored ice cream and stood in the queue to get on the bus back to Aguas Calientes. There were buses constantly departing as they filled up, which was a relief. I did not have to wait for long.

 I got off and started walking towards the market since there was some time left for lunch. I looked under the bridge and spotted one of my friends sitting near the bus stop. I headed back and we decided to go to the restaurant anyway since we did not have anything else to do. The rest of the group joined us soon. While we were there, the main guide gave us the obligatory speech and left soon after, giving all of us tight hugs. I had learnt that he was doing this solely because he loved to do it, was interested in getting to know different people, he was close to stepping into politics in Peru and had travelled to the USA quite a few times to learn how things are done so that he could emulate some of the policies in Peru. It is hard to beat someone who does a job out of sheer delight in it and that was quite visible in how he had handled the tour. The restaurant seemed more like a front for the tour company to run their operations and the not-so-great food confirmed that, rather. A couple in the group had tickets for an earlier train and left with hugs and memories of some fun times. The restaurant emptied as we sat there deep in conversation, so much more comfortable with each other, exhausting their WiFi services, emailing pictures to each other. I was surprised at myself being so outspoken, not for a moment wondering if what I was talking about was too trivial. It was time for more goodbyes as the solo traveler was staying back for an extra day. More hugs and promises to keep in touch.

 I was seated with the family again on the train. It was a more fun version of traveling with my parents (who would have preferred to sleep) and brother. We were engrossed in a card game for most part of the journey. We were in the vista dome train that promised splendid views, but not worth it in the dark. They did have a fashion show, which was more like the crew trying to show us how to wear all the apparel that they had on sale in case we were interested in buying. Once we passed the Ollantaytambo station, I was impatient. I had two more long day hikes planned and the more time we took on the train, the less time I would get to sleep. The Peru vs Chile soccer match changed the atmosphere on the train, still not enough to ease my worries. What was supposed to be a 3.5 hours journey took at least an hour and a half more. We transferred to a bus once we were off the train. The bus stopped somewhere in the city where some others from the tour company waited with our bags. This was my time to bid farewell to everybody else. I was feeling bad when I hugged them, but my mind was elsewhere, thinking about dinner, wondering if I should take a shower, trying to decide if I should go on the hike the next day and the only thing I said was “Bye”, not even a “I had a good time” or “It was great meeting you”. While on the way to the hotel, I made a mental note to send an email making up for my lack of appropriate behavior.